October 2008 Archives

Autumn in a dying forest

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The trees turn gold in this place, a small patch of land never logged near the city. Old sugar maples and hickory and ash. A small lake surrounded by red and orange and yellow and gold. The forest floor, barren, hard, and clean. Look up, and everything is as it should be: nature's greatest palette in every shade of red and gold. Look down, and the forest is dead, nutrients depleted, leaves digested, plant life stripped bare. To a casual observer, the woods look surprisingly neat and clean. But nature is not supposed to be neat and clean, and it is an unwanted janitorial crew that has changed this and millions of acres of forest throughout the United States.

Wood-Rill Scientific and Natural Area, Orono, MN

A walk through the woods with a professor and a few other curious souls gave me the full story. Wood-Rill Scientific and Natural Area is a reserve near Orono, Minnesota, deeded to the state by the celebrated Dayton (department stores) family, who used to enjoy it as their backyard. The trees here have always been here, since they were seedlings, and before them were other trees that sprouted, lived, and died without an axe.

Fall Colors at Wood-Rill Scientific and Natural Area, Orono, MN.

The professor told us about the damage the earthworms have done. Earthworms? The gentle, squishy creatures we learned about in school that make the soil fertile and moist? Not so. Earthworms are not native to North America, and in the eastern woods they wreak havoc, stripping the soil of nutrients. Their burrows are everywhere. Little mounds, sometimes clusters of mounds, worms underneath. Spread by fishermen and others who transport nightcrawlers for bait and other uses, this plague threatens even mature forests.

Brilliant orange surrounds us in the old-growth woods of Wood-Rill SNA


An hour or so into the walk, a crack of thunder split the sky. But light continued to stream in through the gold and orange leaves, and raindrops held until we departed for our cars. Fall colors, even in Minnesota, can be elusive - you'll see patches along the roadsides, but to catch an entire forest in a cathedral of color, you have to get a bit lucky. You need sunlight to see the full effect. Last year we found it at Lake Maria State Park; this year it was Wood-Rill. I wonder where I'll be next year when the color surrounds me.


Road in Orono, MN

Minnesota's Glittering Capitol

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I toured the Minnesota State Capitol last Friday. I've never seen such an extraordinary spectacle of exotic marbles, placed in such a unified and luxurious design. And I have been to Rome and Florence and seen plenty of marble, let me tell you. Built for a few million back in the 19th century, building it today would (if even possible - many of the marble types used are now exhausted) cost over 500 million. Or, if you're a Wall Street banker looking for a handout, "pocket change." But I digress. The free tours, which leave on the hour during the week, take you all the way to the top of the building, where the capitol's signature golden horses charge forever toward the city of St. Paul and the Mississippi.  

Horses atop Minnesota State Capitol

Horse's rears at Minnesota State Capitol

Caves: Part 1 (Wisconsin)

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In a previous life, I spent a summer as a cave guide at Oregon Caves National Monument, back before they went to having rangers do that job. Oregon Caves is a treasure, a marble-based cave with a high level of geological diversity, a long and challenging standard tour for the public,
Crystal Cave (WI) Visitors Center
and plenty of gorgeous formations and creepy passageways to keep everyone happy. I led groups of strangers through its 500 steps, its spiral staircase, its dripping marble walls, its huge hanging folds of bacon (even after a visit to Carlsbad, I still say Oregon Caves has the best cave bacon), its giant drapery formations, its underground river, its mysterious passageways running off in all directions.  I lived in a cedar-bark covered building in a firetrap of a forested canyon, the cave waiting behind a locked door in the side of the mountain. One summer at the caves gave me enough material for a couple of books which I am formulating in my head.  So now, years later and thousands of miles away in the flatlands of Minnesota, I have come to miss my old cave. A subterranean homesickness of sorts.  So I Googled, and found there are a few cave in the Upper Midwest to visit.  The closest natural cave was in Western Wisconsin. I kidnapped the parents and we went for a visit. The cave was  "Crystal Cave", the name given to any cave in a pinch. This sounded promising. Crystals! I like crystals. They're relatively rare in public caves, which have often been raked over by souvenier hunters from the pre-conservation era. They're pretty and they sparkle. Not far from the Twin Cities, the drive was also chance to see the idyllic Wisconsin countryside.  After an enjoyable journey, we arrived at the cave, and were optimistic - a well-chosen book selection in the bookstore seem to imply appreciation for the science of the underworld. The overbuilding was cottage-like, implying the possible presence of Hobbits.

Ah yes, Hobbits. Tiny creatures who live in small houses. How appropriate. This limestone cave, it turns out, is the size of a walk-in closet. Ok, I exaggerate, it's about a mile long, but most of it is inaccessable, and the portions that are seen are, er, modest. This is the highlight:
Crystal Cave Soda Straws, Wisconsin
The short passageways and extreme damage to the cave - I would estimate 90% of the larger formations have been destroyed, probably many years ago, and algae is out of control - left us underwhelmed. Add to it a fake underground stream (the cave doesn't naturally have one) that is pumped in, and this is about the least authentic "real" cave I've visited since the atrocious Shasta Caverns in Northern California. That said, the tour guide, though very young and inexperienced, did have a scientifically accurate curriculum, which has to be appreciated as our culture grows less literate in science by the day. 
Overall, the high level of bat activity - they're literally in every room this time of year - made the cave worth a visit. The guides would be wise to learn more about the bats and have more fun talking about them.  The little brown bat pictured at right swooped back and forth, back and forth, and then curled up for a snooze directly above our heads.  The soda straws pictured above are actually quite impressive and worth a look as well. Quite a large number in one place and most are undamaged. The formations, which are hollow, like a straw, are quite pretty in the light and more numerous than found at many larger show caves. And though the final attraction of the tour involves tour guests smashing coins into the wall of the cave (it's a clay wall, but still a bit shocking to a former National Park guide), the kids love the glittering walls of the coin room, and it is the closest this cave comes to living up to the sparkles implied in its name. 
Little Brown Bat at Crystal Cave
It is hard to fully appreciate a relatively tiny cave that has been so utterly manhandled by its previous owners (I believe the current owners are relatively recent). But it is the only game in town for caves in Western Wisconsin, and there is some good science to be picked up by the young ones on the tour.  Still, this cave did little to alleviate my cavesickness, and so the next weekend I got on the road again - this time to Harmony, Minnesota. Part 2 comes later this week, when we visit a totally different cave, and one that captured my imagination.

Caves: Part 2 (Harmony, Minnesota)

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Last week I confessed my lingering cavesickness, my desire to find a cave, any cave, to bring back the lovely memories of my time as a guide at Oregon Caves National Park, when I was in the best shape of my life and fit nicely into a size 6. Aaah, those were the days.   After an underwhelming visit to Crystal Cave in Western Wisconsin, I grabbed another weekend of good weather and set out for another Midwestern cave. 
 
Limestone shapes of Niagara Cave

This one is called Niagara Cave. Caves have 3 kinds of names: The word "Crystal", Some sort of crazy exaggeration, or a tedious reference to a location.  Last week was a Crystal Cave. This week was an Exaggeration Cave.  The waterfall therein was quite impressive for a cave, but certainly no Niagara.  I suppose if it was a real Niagara it wouldn't be a cave as the water would have torn the limestone roof asunder.  Niagara Cave is another private cave, and like Crystal Cave, it has been through some significant human modification. But this cave outshines anything that has been done to it by man, and reveals one of the most beautiful underground landscapes I've seen. As soon as you descend below the modest gift shop the  golden-tan limestone surrounds you with soft, water-sculpted shapes, all remnants of an underground waterway, carved like the slot canyons of Utah.  

Right away the hight of the cave impresses - though Carlsbad is much higher (so high, in fact, you can't see the ceiling) this cave is strategically lighted to emphasize the tall, scalloped spaces. 

Niagara Falls at Niagara Cave 

The Niagara Falls is a small waterfall that drops over one of these tall spaces about 60 feet to the bottom. While visitors are not permitted to stand at its bottom, which is the most common view seen in brochures, we were able to look over the edge at the small but steady stream plunging into the darkness below.  My camera had a hard time capturing the context of the falls in the strange space.  After the waterfall comes the bulk of the cave.  As I said, it's like a slot canyon underground, except it goes on, and on, for at least a half a mile, down straight passageways with 50 foot cielings. Shapes carved by ancient waterflows leave sculpted shadows. 

Walking in this cave is exactly like walking through your own municipal water table, drained of water.  And there is nowhere to get lost: The entire cave had only 5 or six alternate passageways, most very short. The main waterway provided almost then entire cave. Very different than my Oregon Caves, where he seepage of carbonic acid from the surface rain and the cold waters of cave creek riddled the marble with passageways in every direction.  Getting lost at Oregon Caves was a real possibility, and our tours were small to keep track of the guests. At Niagara, the cave has so few possibilities for error, the tourists are sent out of the deepest part of the cave on their own, without so much as a guide. 

Formations at Niagara Cave 

Calcite formations are not this cave's strong point. While they are drastically more impressive than Crystal Cave in Wisconsin, that's not saying much. In this case, there is one room at the end with an impressive display of draperies, and that's about it. But this cave isn't about formations - the reason it's not great for formations is that it has recently been full of flowing water, and that water is what created the beauty that exists underground today.   A glimpse of the draperies - formed  in an area that was filled with water in a much more distant time - reminded me a bit of Oregon. A bit more cave bacon this time, seen in the picture to the right. But it's still a different landscape, under a cornfield rather than an alpine mountaintop, and Niagara is one of the most calming and "zen" like places I've been in a long time. Nearby Harmony has a thriving and growing Amish community - when visiting this cave it's wise to combine with a visit to an Amish farm. We didn't plan ahead, though, and spent part of our trip touring around Iowa, seeing the last remnants of summer on the Mississppi. So some more nature photography/essays are coming your way, first from Iowa, then from an old-growth maple forest here in the twin cities at the peak of fall color. Both of those in the next couple of weeks. Stay tuned!

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Welcome to Northern Word, the online home of writer/photographer Susan McNerney. Here you'll find nature and travel photography, thoughts on writing, travelogues and other snippets. Susan is originally from California's Redwood Empire and now lives and writes in Minnesota.

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Don't miss Susan's travelogues - A Week in Rome and A Great Southwest Road Trip, both chock full of pics and travel details to Italy and the American Southwest.

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